myMerz E-Classic

2010-01-24T03:11:00.009+08:00

Part 0: Intoduction
Part 1: Bodyworks and Tyres [for external impressions] - completed
Part 2: Suspension, Steering & Braking [for safety] - updated on Dec 14th 2009
Part 3: Air-conditioning and Ventilation [for comfort] - updated on Dec 17th 2009
Part 4: Engine and Transmission [for drivability] - updated on Dec 21st 2009
Part 5: Instrumentation, AV, Electrical and Electronic - updated on Jan 24th 2010
Part 6: Trims, Interior and upholstery - NEW!

Part 6: Trims, Interior and upholstery

2010-01-24T01:53:00.011+08:00

Jan 24th 2009

There was irritating [rattling] sound come out of FR door lately. So I decided to remove the panel to find out the source. Not an easy DIY job actually - lots of trial & error methods because removing Merc door panel is different from the way I did on other cars before.

How to remove door panel..
1. Undo two screws - the first screw [needs philips screw driver] is located near door latch and the second [needs 10mm wrench] is at the top end of the inside door handle.
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2. Roll down window glass
3. Lift up the panel. Do not pry.

Found out the reason for the rattling sound after removing the panel . It was due to several retaining plastic hooks came off [tanggal].

Very simple solution...
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I used fast setting Araldite epoxy rasin to stick them back. Set within minutes and full strength just an hour later. Looks crude, but works!

Part 5: Instrumentation, AV, Electrical and Electronic

2010-01-03T08:03:00.025+08:00

Unlike new millennium cars that rely heavily on computers, the antique W124 electrical system is very simple and QED [quite easy to DIY].

Jan 24th 2010
The most common problem with W124 is overheating during traffic jam if thermo fan_switch fails. Under normal driving condition with aircond ON the radiator cooling fan seldom kicks in, so no one knows immediately whether the radiator cooling fan is operational.

It is not practical to carry around a spare fan switch because I can bet the number of Merc owners who keep 22mm wrench in their car if more than one hand finger_count.

The simplest way is to keep a jumper wire c/w banana [male] connectors to short circuit the fan thermo_switch female connector in case the switch fails while driving or caught in traffic jam. Simple!

Jan 21st 2010
The W124 engine can even be cranked by a weak small capacity battery [DIN55]. The ECU won't cut off electrical power supply even though the voltage drops below nominal value.

This battery was considered dead by another sensitive car which rely too much on computer!

Jan 03rd 2010
Everytime I tekan brake pedal, fuel gauge reading drops to 'E'. Similarly when turning signal light is activated the fuel gauge needle started to dance with the same tempo. I opened up the boot and removed all the plastic covers to examine the wiring for short circuits or loose connections.

What I found was a loose earthing point at which several brown colored-coded wire were screwed to the car body. If u guys experience this just check the grounding/earthing point connections.

December 16th 2009
Aircond blower fan and compressor intermittently stops, especially when taking hard corners or hitting a speed bump. Looks like there is a loose electrical connection.

However, if either one [blower fan or compressor] stops functioning it could be more than just electrical connection problem. Well, electrical thing is my bread and butter but the access to the main electrical wiring/connector at the back of the aircond switch/speed_regulator is no easy task. It took me almost 30minutes to reach there.

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My guess was correct. I checked the main incoming power line [the thickest wire] voltage and it was OK. Took out the connector and found out that it had become loose. Just by using a long nose pliers the female connector could be tightened back.

Part 4: Engine and Transmission

2009-11-17T11:56:00.028+08:00

December 21th, 2009
Flushed cooling system and replaced with new coolant [1.5liter for RM28.00] . Cleaned sludge and service coolant level sensor.

December 13th, 2009
Sunday Dec 13th was my unlucky day. On my way back from Ampang the warning light for 'coolant level low' turned ON about a km before reaching Kajang Toll Plaza [near Country Height]. The coolant temperature remained below 90deg C though - while keeping my eye on the temperature I kept driving towards the toll plaza parking lot.

It was almost sunset. Found out the culprit was leaking water jacket cap. That is the worst design by Merc ever!. Instead of using threaded cap, it was held by friction only, just like 'Hwa Tai' biscuit tin cover. The car was then 'pushed' by another car [not towed] to the nearest workshop about 2km away.

December 09th, 2009
It was scheduled for engine oil and oil filter change. In order to replace the oil filter for this particular engine model, the air filter housing must be taken out first.

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While waiting for the engine oil to be completely drained out I use the time to clean the engine with mineral turpentine by using a 1.5" paint brush then wipe out with old rag. Turpentine will not leave any greasy residue as diesel does.

While draining engine oil I found out the oil level sensor leaks. Had to take it out to identify what was wrong with it and to find out whether it could be rectified or must be replaced.

After cleaning I found out that the leak was around the electrical connector sleeve. I used 'Gel Grip' glue to seal the leaking part of the sleeve.

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Refitted and no more leak... no need to replace it with a new one.

November 21st, 2009
It rained all day today. No DIY activity as planned except polishing/waxing cars. Probably I'll be looking the Engine and Transmission problems after the Raya Haji.

Part 3: Airconditioning and Ventilation

2009-11-17T11:30:00.025+08:00

December 16th 2009
Aircond blower fan and compressor intermittently stops, especially when taking hard corners or hitting a speed bump. Looks like there is a loose electrical connection.

However, if either one [blower fan or compressor] stops functioning it could be more than just electrical connection problem. Well, electrical thing is my bread and butter but the access to the main electrical wiring/connector at the back of the aircond switch/speed_regulator is no easy task. It took me almost 30minutes to reach there.

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My guess was correct. I checked the main incoming power line [the thickest wire] voltage and it was OK. Took out the connector and found out that it had become loose. Just by using a long nose pliers the female connector could be tightened back.

November 17th 2009
Aircond not cool. Somehow the 'gas' leaked out when the car was kept in garage for more than six months.

Today, sent the car to nearby w/shop for R-12 refrigerant top up. Paid RM35.00. Will observe whether the refrigerant leaks out or not. If it leaks out the car has to be sent for a thorough inspection and general a/cond service. I can't recall the last time the car was sent for aircond maintenance.

Part 2: Suspension, Steering and Braking System

2009-11-08T05:26:00.098+08:00

December 14th 2009
The worn out lower-arm ball joints [both left and right] were replaced when the car was sent to a workshop to repair/replace a broken water jacket cap. I didn't have proper tools to do the job.

2 x Febi Bilstein Ball Joints = RM230.00

The balls are always under stress of being split out of the sockets due to the suspension spring downward forces and are subjects to severe friction hence quick wear & tear - unlike in lower arms with McPherson struts where there is no static force [neutral] acting on the balls in relation to the sockets.

November 15th 2009
With proper tools, it is a very easy 'DIY' job to replace absorber struts and front brake pads on MB W124. The following what I did today...

Preparation
Tools required to replace shock absorber struts and mountings:
1. 18-in Torque Wrench handle
2. 19mm box wrench
3. 19mm ring spanner
4. 22mm ring or open-end spanner
5. 7mm allen key
6. 13mm box wrench with handle

7. Jacks [and wood block for safety]

1. Changing Front Absorber Struts
Started the 'dirty' job very early in the morning. First and foremost of course had to remove the wheel.

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For safety season, instead of leaving the jack to support the car weight I placed a wood block [30cm high] underneath. After removing the wheel I used jack to support lower arm from going down too much under the pressure of the spring when the shock absorber strut is removed. Next loosen strut shaft retaining nut [just LOOSEN only - did not remove yet] using 22mm ring spanner in combination with 17mm allen key as shown above.

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At the lower part of the strut there are three fastening bolts/screw to be removed. Two bolts at the back of the hub and a screw at the upper part as shown above. Removed them using 19mm wrenches.

After removing bolts and screws the absorber strut was hangging. Now look at the jack placed under the lower arm - without which the lower arm would have pushed down under the pressure of the spring which makes removing bolts and screw difficult. The strut was then removed by continuing loosening the nut at the top-end as mentioned earlier.

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Strut mounting was removed and the new absorber was 'dressed-up' with boot, bump stopper and mounting [ready to be installed] as shown above.

Installing procedure was reversal to the removing of the absorber strut.

Installation of the new SACHS absorber strut and cleaning of the surrounding area in the tyre well were completed!!

2. Changing Front Brake Pads
Changing front brake pads on MB W124 can be done DIY in just THREE simple steps- in fact one of if not the easiest.

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Step #1 loosen and remove upper retaining bolt then split open to remove worn out pads.

Step #2 drop in the new set of brake pad. Step #3 tighten back the retaining bolt and DONE in less than 5 minutes [excluding time to jack up and remove wheels].

November 14th 2009
After getting some 'advices' from myBenz forum finally I decided to have a try for SACHS. Hopefully they will not suck. By late afternoon my orders [SACH struts, absorber mounting, boots, bump-stopper and Jurid Honeywell brakepads] were delivered.

*Here are the breakdown costs:
f/SACHS 115 070 struts: 2 x RM255 = RM510
f/Absorber Mountings: 2 x RM70 = RM140
f/Boots: 2 x RM15 = RM30
f/Bump-stoppers: 2 x RM15 = RM30
Jurid Honeywell F/Brake pads: RM110
Total: RM820.00 - RM20 discount = RM800.00

November 13th 2009
To order Mercedes Benz OEM BILSTEIN or SACH shocks, etc...

November 12th 2009
There is squeaking sound like an old excavator hydraulic actuator... queek keookkk!!, when turning the steering wheel either to the left or right. Upon examination I found out both front absorber boots were torn off and gone. Bump-stoppers also broken.

Batang absorber and rubber seals give out squeaking sound when rubbed against each other. Confirmed - the "queek keookk" sound was coming out from front suspension struts. Those absorbers need replacement anyway - the last time they were replaced around 5 yrs ago.

close-up view of the broken bump-stopper

Part 1: Bodyworks

2009-11-07T20:01:00.071+08:00

To 'ketuk' body, change front & rear bumpers, tail lamp and paint the whole car.

November 11th 2009
The car is finally taken home today... needs another round of buffing a month later.

The paintwork was not perfectly done - but 'OK' , or 'Not Too Bad' for the price paid.

Oh my God! The star shines again...

November 10th 2009
Almost completed but needs touching up and more buffing before cleaning. Overall penal-beating was nicely done. The dents on both sides of the boot had been perfectly repaired.
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.....................Before............................................After..................

Could not get W124 E-class RHS tail lamp on time, had to use older version temporarily until the stock is available.

November 9th 2009
Final buffing and surface treatment...

November 8th 2009
Workshop closed.

November 7th 2009
Noon: Waiting for the paint and clear-coat to dry/hardened before buffing-to-shine.

Evening: Buffing started...

The quality of work was awesome... well it was done in the name of... [read it on the reflection in the picture shown above!! amazing, it was unintentional]

Unbelievable finishing!! just look at the panel where severe damage had been perfectly repaired . While the original 'stress line' had been flawlessly restored.

November 6th 2009
Final color and clear-coat spraying completed.

November 5th 2009
Morning: Heat-resistant polymer was applied on bonnet and boot lid.
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Noon: Preparation before applying undercoat.

The P-Team who're working at the workshop having their quick lunch.

Afternoon: Applying undercoat

November 4th 2009
"Putty works", rubbling and polishing...
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A set of new bumpers - front & rear were in place perfectly. The old paint has been sandblasted.

November 3rd 2009
Panel beating started in the morning...

... and was completed in the afternoon.
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Looks like very carefully done by a skilled Pakistani panel beater. Pakistanis are good at beating huh!

November 2nd 2009
Removing of old paint on hood and boot-lid until the metal surface is 100% exposed.
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nicely done so far....

November 1st 2009
Workshop closed.

October 31st 2009
Found a suitable workshop with experienced panel beaters to repair the damage before respraying the car body to its original color, barolo red.

Quotations:
Panel beating RM400
Painting job RM1800
Bumpers [Rear and Front] RM800
Tail Lamp 'Free'.
[total: RM3000.00 only].

Introduction

2009-10-31T17:31:00.034+08:00

Wan [also well known as uncle.D or AHWan308 amongst Peugeot kakis and AHW in NATUREphotography realm] had been thinking since Jan 2009 to refurbish his old three-pointed-star family saloon.

MB W124 upgraded to E-class in 1995

At the same time he was poisoned by the new generation of C and E-class. However the all-new Peugeot 308 Turbo had impressed him more - which performance and specifications are on par if not better than other continental cars [NA 1.8~2.0 liter category] costing almost triple as expensive!.

The old Benz was driven by his sons. Unfortunately in May 2009 the car was badly damaged by an accident at a parking lot when a minibus crashed onto it at one side. The impact was so strong that the car displaced about 1 meter side way until it crashed onto another parked car. The results were badly dented on both sides of the rear end, broken bumper and broken RHS tail lamp. Nevertheless the car still looks solidly built just like the Humber Bridge! Well, W124-series is actually the best ever car built by Mercedes [?] and the most reliable [?].

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Dented on both sides at rear. The car was kept in garage for almost six months before the long overdue-project kicked off.